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Posted by Admin on
 April 1, 2014

How to Crate Train Your Puppy: Ultimate Carpet Cleaning

How to Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy

#utlimatecarpetcleaning  #cratetraining #cratetrain

Preparing the CrateIntroducing your Dog to the CrateGetting your Dog Accustomed to Being AloneLeaving your Dog AloneUsing Crates for Housebreaking

Edited by Tom Viren, Jack Herrick, Ben Rubenstein, Heather and 36 others

While some people view crate training as cruel and unnecessary, it’s actually very beneficial and less stressful to your dog. If done correctly, your dog will come to appreciate the crate as their own space to relax and feel at home. In the future it will be a great benefit that your dog has been crate trained if he needs surgery or will travel. Furthermore, it serves as a great tool for housebreaking. Most likely, your dog will like the crate if you are careful not push him

Method 1 of 5: Preparing the Crate

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    1

    Figure out what kind of crate you want. Vari-Kennel type crates have a hard plastic outer shell with a wire door. They’re most practical for dogs who can relax best when they can’t see what’s going on all around them, dogs who love to chew, and owners who like to travel with their pets. Wire mesh crates, on the other hand, are made of a strong metal meshing all around. They’re best for dogs who like to see all around them, and dogs in hot, humid climates because they offer more ventilation. [1]

    • Choose the proper size crate. The crate should allow enough room for standing, sitting, and stretching out, but you don’t want the crate to be so big that your dog has enough room to make one section of the crate the bathroom and the other the sleeping area. If you only want to buy one crate, get one that will be large enough for your dog as an adult and block off an end of it while your dog is still small. [2]
    • To get a Vari-Kennel style crate ready for your dog, remove the screws connecting the top and bottom halves of the crate. For most dogs/puppies, you’ll want to allow them to get used to the crate without the top half first.
    • To prepare a Wire Mesh crate, tie the door back so that the crate is always open. Be sure to place something along the bottom of the crate to keep any floorboards from rattling.
  2. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 2.jpg
    2

    Make the crate comfortable. Find an old blanket or towel to fold up and place on the floor of the crate. If your dog already has a bed that they’re accustomed to, you can use that too. The idea here is not only to create a comfortable place for your dog to lie, but also to remind your dog that the crate is for sleeping and comfort, not for going to the bathroom.

    • If your dog soils the bedding, be sure to remove it as quickly as possible to avoid it happening again. Not only will a pee-soaked towel sink up your house and the area around it, but it will encourage your dog to use the area as a bathroom again and again.
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    3

    Provide water. This is especially important if you’re planning on leaving your dog confined for more than two hours. If you’re worried about your dog making a mess, invest in a small hamster-type water bottle and fill it with ice water.

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    4

    Make the crate appealing. Place your dogs favorite toys inside at the far end of the crate, provided they are sturdy and large enough that your dog will not choke. Later on in the training process, you can also place juicy treats such as marrow bones in the crate when your dog goes in.

Method 2 of 5: Introducing your Dog to the Crate

  1. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 5.jpg
    1

    Keep the crate in a high-traffic area. By keeping the crate in an area with a lot of people, such as a living room or kitchen, your dog will associate the crate with being surrounded by people rather than completely lonely and isolated. Allow the crate to sit there for a little while before you ask your dog to go into it. This way, the crate will become a normal piece of furniture in your house rather than a strange object.

    • Note that at night the crate should be kept in your bedroom. Once again, being around humans and human activity will comfort the puppy. In addition to that, your sleeping patterns will influence those of your puppy to ensure a full night of sleep for you and the dog. Ideally, you won’t crate your dog at night until later in the process, but if doing so will mitigate damage and accidents in your house, it may be necessary. [3]
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    2

    Use positive reinforcement. Though it may be tempting, you should never use the crate as a form of punishment. Always talk to your dog in a happy tone of voice when referring to the crate.

    • Begin positive reinforcement by dropping little treats or pieces of dog food in and around the entrance of the crate. While exploring the room and new object, your puppy will begin to associate it with delicious treats.
    • Praise your puppy every time you see him enter the crate. Drop what you’re doing when you see him enter and give your dog full-blown praise. Hug him, pet him, say good dog, and maybe even give him a treat out of your hand.
    • Play “games” with your puppy. Drop a treat in the crate without showing your dog. Then, call your puppy by name and say something along the lines of “Where is your treat?! Go get it from your crate!” Use an extremely happy, friendly voice and gentle gestures to playfully guide your dog to the crate. As soon as the dog finds the treat, praise him enthusiastically. If your dog is more motivated by toys, you can also do this with his favorite ball or squeaker. [4]
      • Never try to push, pull, or force your puppy into the crate. With the exception of nighttime, you should allow the puppy to enter at its own will during this stage.
  3. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 7.jpg
    3

    Feed your dog in the crate. Once your dog is comfortable entering the crate on its own, begin feeding it its regular meals in the crate. Place the food dish at the back of the crate. If your dog is still hesitant going all the way in, place the food dish only as far back as your dog will willingly go. Each time you feed him, move the food dish slightly further back.

    • When your dog is comfortable standing all the way in his crate while eating, begin closing the door as he eats. Play close attention and open the door as soon as he’s finished. After doing this a few times, you can slowly increase the amount of time you leave the door closed after the meal until you can leave him in there for about 10 minutes.
    • If your dog starts to whine, you’ve increased the time too quickly. Leave the door closed for a shorter amount of time next time. Remember not to let your dog out while he is whining, or he will cry and whine every time he wants to be let out. [5]

Method 3 of 5: Getting your Dog Accustomed to Being Alone

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    1

    Be home. It is important that the dog does not immediately associate his crate with being alone or abandoned. Therefore, you should not use the crate when you’re away from the house until you have completed the following steps.

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    2

    Slowly build up time in crate. When your dog will sit calmly and happily in his crate for the 10 minutes after he eats, you can move on to longer periods of time. At a random point in the day (not directly after the meals) call your dog over and show him you have a treat. Have him go into the crate (you may want to use a command word such as “kennel”) and praise him/give him the treat.

    • Once your dog is inside the crate, close it and quietly sit right in front of the door for 5 to 10 minutes. Then, get up and go into another room for 5 minutes. When you return to the room, sit in front of the door for another few minutes before letting the dog out of the crate.
  3. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 10.jpg
    3

    Repeat the previous step several times a day. Slowly increase the amount of time you are away over the course of several days or weeks. Remember: if your dog starts whining, you’re increasing time away too fast. Don’t let your dog out of the crate until there is a break in the whining, but next time lower the amount of time you’re away. Continue until you can leave the room for 30 minutes without a problem.

Method 4 of 5: Leaving your Dog Alone

  1. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 11.jpg
    1

    Start leaving the house. When your dog feels comfortable being alone in the crate for 30 minutes, you can start leaving him there while you leave the house for short periods of time. As time goes on, you can leave your dog for longer and longer. While there is no set of rules about how long to leave a dog in a crate, here is a general set of guidelines:[6]

    • 9 to 10 weeks – 30 to 60 minutes
    • 11 to 14 weeks – 1 to 3 hours
    • 15 to 16 weeks – 3 to 4 hours
    • 17+ weeks – 4 to 6 hours
    • Note that with the exception of nighttime, you should never crate your dog for longer than 6 hours at a time (ideally 5).
  2. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 12.jpg
    2

    Vary when you put your dog in the crate. Crate him anytime between 20 and 5 minutes before you leave. Simply put him in the crate using your usual method and give him a treat. Then, leave quietly when your’e ready.

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    3

    Don’t make a big deal about coming home or back into the room. Though your dog may be happy to see you, don’t reward this behavior with happy, high pitched responses. Instead, calmly release your dog a few minutes after you get home.

  4. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 14.jpg
    4

    Immediately take the dog outside. This will allow your dog to relieve himself. Once he has gone to the bathroom, feel free to praise him excessively. Not only does this help mitigate accidents in your house in the moment, but it will also reinforce the idea to your puppy that going to the bathroom outside results in praise.

Method 5 of 5: Using Crates for Housebreaking

  1. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 15.jpg
    1

    Start as soon as possible. Using a crate is very effective for teaching bowel and bladder control. However, if you’re planning on crate training to housebreak, you should start this process as soon as you bring your new puppy home. This will mitigate the amount of accidents your puppy has before he is completely comfortable in his crate.

  2. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 16.jpg
    2

    Follow the steps from “Preparing the Crate” and “Introducing your Dog to the Crate” (above). Although you are not training your dog to be comfortable alone necessarily, you do want them to feel as though the crate is their home. This is the feeling that will prevent your puppy from going to the bathroom inside the crate.

  3. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 17.jpg
    3

    Confine the puppy to the crate when you are home. Once your puppy is extremely comfortable with the crate, you can confine him there while you are in the room. Every hour on the hour, take your puppy outside. Give him 3 to 6 minutes to go to the bathroom.

    • If he doesn’t go in the allotted time, just return him to the crate. If he does, immediately reward the puppy with extreme praise, treats, love, play, and extended walk, and perhaps the ability to run free about your house for a little while (if you choose to let your puppy run around the house, take him back outside in 30 to 45 minutes to prevent accidents).
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    4

    Keep a puppy journal. While it sounds silly, keeping a journal of the time that your puppy actually goes to the bathroom will help you out. Assuming you have a regular feeding schedule for your puppy, he’ll also have a regular bathroom schedule. Once you know the times at which he actually goes to the bathroom, you can begin taking her out at those times rather than every hour. When the timing is completely consistant, you can let your puppy run supervised around your house for most of the day.

  5. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 19.jpg
    5

    Put the puppy in his crate an hour before he will need to go to the bathroom.Once you have your puppy’s bathroom schedule worked out, you’ll know an hour before your puppy needs to go to the bathroom. By putting him in the crate at this time, you’ll prevent the puppy from going earlier than you planned. [7]

  6. Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy Step 20.jpg
    6

    Continue praise. Don’t slack—continue extended praise every time your puppy goes to the bathroom outside. Eventually, your puppy will begin waiting for you to take him outside.

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    7

    Slowly reduce the amount of time your puppy stays in the crate. Eventually, you can eliminate the crate all together and just take your puppy out at the allotted time.

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    8

    Clean up mistakes. Unless you catch the puppy directly in the act, don’t punish your puppy for having accident in the house. Clean it up using a non-ammonia based spray and try again. Supervise your puppy at all times, and if you don’t trust him, keep him in the crate. Remember that if you change your puppy’s food schedule, his bathroom schedule will change too.

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Tips

  • If your dog whines in the crate, ignore it (unless something is physically wrong). Release him only when he is calm. Otherwise, your dog will associate whining with being let out of the crate.
  • In case of accidents: Be sure to use a stain and odor remover so that your dog does not eliminate waste in the same place. Remember – just because you cannot smell anything it does not mean that your dog can’t!
    • Never use ammonia-based products. To dogs, ammonia smells like urine, and thus these products can encourage increased use of a specific spot as a bathroom.
  • Be sure to use a crate that is the right size. If the crate is too big, the dog can use a corner to go to the bathroom and will not learn to leave the crate to relieve himself. The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand, lay down, and turn around. If you are starting with a puppy you may need a smaller crate and get a larger one as the puppy grows.
  • Remember to take your dog out to potty a short time after eating. Most dogs will need to eliminate a short time after meals.
  • Leave soothing music or a TV on for your dog while he is in the crate during the day.
  • Dont forcefully make him enter the crate.
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Warnings

  • Make sure there are no sharp edges or wire ends that can hurt the dog. Some dogs with protuberant eyes, such as Pekingese, have been known to hurt their eyes on sharp crate edges.
  • Don’t leave your dog in the crate for more than a few hours at a time (unless overnight). You can gradually build the number of hours your dog can stay in the crate to 6 hours maximum (on the rare occasion when absolutely unavoidable), but this process occurs at a rate of one hour per month – a 2 month old puppy must have a break after 2 hours. A 6 month old should be able to go 6 hours, but this is not hard and fast. You know your dog – watch for signs of distress and do your best to relieve his problem before he makes a mistake. Remember – sometimes you have those days, too, when you have to go much more often than usual. He’s an animal, and things may change for a living thing every day. Be willing to accept some variations.
  • If you must leave your dog in the crate for more than 5 hours, it is highly recommended that you hire somebody to come walk them, and don’t do this on a regular basis.

Related wikiHows

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://dogtime.com/dog-crates.html
  2. ↑ http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/cratetraining.htm
  3. ↑ http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/cratetraining.htm
  4. ↑ http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
  5. ↑ http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html
  6. ↑ http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html
  7. ↑ http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html

 

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Article Info

Categories: Dog Obedience

 

Recent edits by: Adelaide, Neon Heart, Hasbeen400

 

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Categories : Uncategorized
Tags : #cratetrain, #cratetraining, #utlimatecarpetcleaning
Posted by Admin on
 January 16, 2014

A Comparison of Olefin, Nylon, Polyester and Wool Carpeting

 

A Comparison of Olefin, Nylon, Polyester and Wool Carpeting

Some people think that there are only different brands of carpet and that there are not actually different types of materials. This is far from the truth, and there are four major types of fabrics that can be utilized when you are deciding to floor your home.

The most common material used in carpet production is nylon. Nylon is a durable synthetic material that is very resistant to spills and is easily maintainable. For any sort of high use environment, this is usually the type of carpet preferred.

Laboratories are increasing the efficiency of nylon fiber, so that it becomes more durable and tougher, providing greater resistance to stains. These newer carpets are usually labeled as stain resistant, and they come with better warranties and a higher price tag.

Olefin is another type of carpet material, which is also known as polypropylene. It is stain resistant and resists any damage from moisture. As well, you can use heavy chemicals without ruining your carpet.

Unfortunately, Olefin doesn’t last as long as nylon carpeting, and you will usually see this type of carpeting in pool houses, basements, or other spaces that are not heavily used and that do 0not receive heavy foot traffic.

Polyester carpet ranks in strength between nylon and olefin carpet and has a very low price tag. This type of carpeting will not result in any set of allergy, it is resistant to insects and moisture, and it is very easy to clean. This type of carpet will frustrate some own homeowners because it piles, and it also is prone to shedding fibers.

Usually the kind of bargain prices you see in home improvement stores on carpeting for around a dollar a square foot are composed of polyester carpet.

You may be surprised to know that the last type of carpeting material is wool. Due to its extremely high price, wool carpeting is rarely used in most modern forms of carpeting and usually has to be special ordered. It has many positive attributes, including being soft, fire resistant, dust resistant, and very rich in texture.

Wool carpeting will never crush over time as other carpets will, but you will certainly pay a high price tag. In fact, it is quite difficult to find vendors of wool carpeting at all.

Whatever you are deciding to carpet, remember that you have a great deal of choices so you may want to think about what material of carpet you are going to buy so that you don’t make the wrong decision.

Categories : Uncategorized
Tags : what is a good carpet, what is athe best carpet to put in my house, what is the difference between nylon and polyester, What type of carpet should i get?
Posted by Admin on
 January 15, 2014

Black lines around my Carpet?

What are those Black lines around the Edge of my Carpet?

Filtration soiling is a carpet care problem many cleaning technicians encounter in both commercial and residential settings.

Filtration soiling is a term used to describe dark, gray (sometimes black) lines that can appear on carpet as it acts as a filter to dust and other airborne pollutants. It accumulates on carpet fibers in areas with a concentrated flow of air over the carpet. It can also develop as a result of tiny cracks or other open areas in the sub floor under the carpet.

Filtration soiling is most commonly found around baseboards, under doors, along the edges of stairs, near HVAC vents and in areas where plywood sub flooring

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materials have been joined. Such soiling can also be the result of fireplace emissions and can even come from cooking oils that have become airborne and settled into the carpet, a problem that often occurs in restaurants. It can be the result of the use of candles in homes.

 

This issue is not a carpet defect, nor is it a result of the quality of carpet selected. However, the condition will obviously appear more pronounced on lighter colored carpet fibers as compared to darker ones.

Very challenging to remove, filtration soiling often develops over a period of months or even years; however, it can also develop fairly quickly. The level of soiling can vary, and is typically dependent upon the volume of airflow and the level of pollutants in the air. In residential settings, concentrated airflow moving from an upper level to a lower level can also cause filtration soiling to occur.

Removing filtration soiling

One of the challenges of removing filtration soiling from carpet is that these soils can be very fine and contain a combination of water-soluble and solvent-soluble solids

This means that, in some cases, different cleaning treatments or a combination of cleaning treatments may be needed to achieve complete removal.

Additionally, while there are several specialized filtration soil removers now available that may work well to remove the soil, at least temporarily, some products can leave behind a sticky residue that can result in rapid re-soiling. You must do your research.

Some chemicals, gels, and even chemicals that use citrus solvents are now available that are effective at removing filtration soiling without leaving a sticky residue. An astute distributor should be familiar with filtration soiling and, in many cases, will be aware of the products that, when used properly, have proven to work well.

Working with these products, the following steps should be taken:

  • Thoroughly vacuum the area before cleaning.
  • Always pretest the product in an inconspicuous area for colorfastness prior to application.
  • To protect the wall or baseboard, use a “shim” of some kind. This can be a piece of wood, plastic or cardboard that will protect the wall or baseboard from cleaning chemicals.
  • Dilute the chemical treatment per the manufacturer’s instructions before use. Many cleaning professionals select a trigger sprayer, flip-top spotting bottle or hand-held pump-up sprayer for application. Avoid over spraying or inhaling the product mist.
  • Once the chemical has been sprayed or applied to the affected area, allow it to “dwell” on the carpet for a few minutes; next, carefully agitate the area to work the solution into the carpet.
  • Extract the treated area using a hot-water extractor with an acid/neutralizing rinse; the hotter the water, the better the results will be (as long as the temperature is safe for the carpet fiber).
  • For faster drying, especially in humid environments, consider using an axial, centrifugal or downdraft air mover after cleaning.

Filtration soiling often becomes an ongoing problem, and not surprisingly, often appears repeatedly in the same areas. According to the Carpet and Rug Institute, there are several ways to prevent, or at least slow down, filtration soiling:

  • Apply soil- and stain-resistant treatments to the affected area.
  • If the problem is caused by airflow from HVAC vents, install high-efficiency air filters and change them regularly.
  • If air is coming from under doors or walls, properly sealing these areas can help address the problem.
  • In residential settings, technicians should advise customers that cigarette and cigar smoke can contribute to filtration soiling.

Filtration soiling is a relatively common problem in both residential and commercial settings that most technicians will have to address from time to time.

Fortunately, using the appropriate treatments and chemicals, filtration soiling is treatable, and can even be prevented when proper steps are taken.

Categories : Uncategorized
Posted by Admin on
 January 15, 2014

Bedbugs Outbreak, Boise, ID

 BEDBUG ATTACH

When you were a child, your parents might have tucked you into bed while admonishing you, “Don”t let the bedbugs bite.”

The thought that there might be something in your bed that would come out of hiding and bite you while you slept might have been a bit frightening. But, you soon realized there was no threat.

Well, the threat of bedbugs is back with us.

A survey in New York showed that six percent of homes report bedbug infestation, with many more likely going unreported. There have been cases of well-known businesses and major hotels reporting problems.

Some experts believe that 50 percent of all homes may be infested within the next 10 years.

How extensive is this problem?

Bedbugs were nearly eradicated from the U.S. and many other countries by the use of DDT by about 1940.

Since the use of DDT was discontinued, there have been very few cases of bedbugs until the last 12 to 15 years. Reports of bedbugs have increased even faster in the last five years and most rapidly in the last year.

The reason for the resurgence is generally attributed to the rise in travel to and from countries that still have bedbugs. They are great hitch-hikers and can be transported from country to country or from one home or building to another on almost any item, including clothing.

Because of international travel, cities like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, Atlanta and Orlando have the greatest incidence of reported outbreaks.

However, bedbugs are in every city of any size. A city not known for international travel — Cincinnati — is also reporting a strong upsurge in reports of bedbugs.

So, what is already a big concern looks like it could explode in the coming years.

Even the thought of “creepy crawlies” sharing the bed will disturb many of your customers. If you have not already been asked about cleaning to remove bedbugs, you likely will get such questions in the future.

Reaction to bedbug bites

The good news is that bedbugs are not known to carry any disease. But they can still cause discomfort.

The bite is not painful, usually not enough to wake a sleeping victim. The bug injects saliva into the site of the bite. This keeps the blood flowing instead of clotting.

A person may become sensitized to the saliva. Bites may not even be noticed at first, but more intense reaction may occur after repeated bites.

Reaction to the bite may occur in a few hours, but more commonly it is not seen until anywhere from three to 11 days later. The bites may be as minor as a raised, red area of the skin or as severe as painful, itchy welts.

Bedbug facts

There are at least 70 varieties of bedbugs.

The most common species in the United States is Cimex Lecturis. They are blood-sucking parasites less than one-fourth of an inch in length, and reddish brown in color. A full-sized adult is the size of or smaller than an apple seed.

Average lifespan is 10 months, but they can live 15 months or longer, especially if part of that time is in a dormant state. They become dormant when no food is available or when temperatures drop below freezing.

An average bite lasts from 5 to 15 minutes. This will usually feed a bed bug for five to seven days, but they can go several months between meals of blood, especially if dormant. When well-fed, they retreat to a cozy, safe place to hide and sleep until it is time for the next meal.

Early in an infestation, the bugs tend to collect in the same area, especially on mattresses or near beds. They like to hide behind headboards and mirrors in bedrooms.

Bedbugs don”t jump or hop, but they can crawl surprising distances and can climb on a vertical surfaces. Although unusual, some bugs have even been found in a kitchen 30 feet from the bed.

When infestations are larger, the bugs can be found in upholstered furniture, clothing and other locations farther from a bed.

They are attracted by warm bodies and carbon dioxide. The search for warm bodies may be why more activity is reported in warm weather when temperatures reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Locating infestations

Infestations can be located in several ways. The most common identifier is the dark red to black spots from bloody feces.

Small, almost translucent white eggs are another sign, as are the discarded husks or exoskeletons. A bedbug may shed its outer skin nearly 12 times during its life cycle.

Due to the small size, they can hide in many places. They prefer fabric or wood over metal or plastic. Bugs may enter mattresses through the holes used to sew the ticking (cloth covering).

Many have been found inside screw holes of beds or headboards. This necessitates a slow and thorough search that may require several hours to search one bedroom.

Some dogs have been trained to sniff out bedbug infestations. Under controlled settings, their accuracy is 95 percent or better. However, some experts believe that dogs can only detect bugs located within approximately 12 inches of their noses. That leaves a lot of high places for bugs to still be hiding.

Dogs may alert on dead bodies or exoskeletons from prior infestations, or something else that captures their attention. Positive alerts must be verified by actually finding living bugs.

Preventing infestations

With the cost of treatments often running more than $1,000, some of the best advice you can provide your clients is how to prevent bedbugs from making their way into their home or business.

Don”t provide them a free ride on your clothing or belongings. Those who regularly travel from foreign countries or areas of the U.S. known to have infestation are already taking what could be considered extreme measures, but may well be the standard prevention in the future.

  • When entering a hotel, do not place suitcases or other bags on the bed or dresser or wooden counters. Use a folding stand for suitcases or simply carry the items individually.
  • Take a minimum of belongings into your room. Have these items sealed in plastic bags or similar containers. Open the plastic. Remove an item when you need it and close the bag. Place items you will be taking with you in other plastic bags. Some experts even keep their belongings stored in the car rather than the room so as not to provide an opportunity for bugs to hitch a ride.
  • When returning home from a trip, items can be removed from the plastic bags before bringing them into the home. Placing them in the sunlight for a few hours may be sufficient to kill the pests. The plastic bags get disposed of after unpacking.
  • Whenever possible, items are placed in a dryer at moderate heat settings. The Dry Cleaning and Laundry Institute in Laurel, MD, reports that even items tagged as “Dry Clean Only” can safely be treated in a dryer at moderate temperatures without harm, as long as they stay dry.

Treating infestations

Most chemical treatments are of limited effectiveness. Some that had a 99 percent kill rate in lab conditions only killed about 25 percent (or less) of bedbugs in real-world setting.

It is believed that the bedbugs grown for lab use do not have the resistance to pesticides found in most real-world populations.

Pesticides that have proven somewhat effective work only by direct contact. Bedbugs do not carry the pesticide back to nests or burrows in the way that some other pests do.

One needs to hit each and every bedbug directly. That is likely to be ineffective given the tiny holes they can hide in.

Bedbugs can also hide from pesticides or simply move into adjoining rooms. This spreads the infestation in a home or to other dorm rooms, hotel rooms or apartments. They can move back later after the pesticide has worn off.

The most effective measures are preventative:

  • Don”t bring anything into the home that could carry a bedbug.
  • Standard vacuuming is of almost no help. It misses the places that bugs hide. A very targeted, slow and deliberate vacuuming can be helpful, especially in the early stages of an infestation, but is not going to be 100 percent effective. It simply helps to keep things in check.
  • Steam cleaning (HWE) is more helpful than vacuuming, but still can”t be guaranteed to be 100 percent effective.

Once an infestation is growing, there are three practical ways to deal with it.

  1. Throw effected items away.
  2. Put anything possible in laundry with water temperatures above 120 degrees Fahrenheit. For items that cannot be laundered, they are put in a dryer as discussed previously.
  3. Encase mattresses, box springs and pillows in sealed plastic cover. This keeps bug inside and away from you.

Hot and cold

Bedbugs are sensitive to temperatures. Cold temperatures at or below freezing can cause them to go into an inactive or dormant state, but they can become active again after warming up.

To kill bedbugs, freezing temperatures must be maintained for several days or the temperature must get down to at least a negative 27 degrees Fahrenheit for five minutes. This makes freezing treatment impractical in most situations.

Placing items in plastic bags and putting them out in the sun may help. Temperatures must be monitored with a thermometer to maintain a minimum of 120 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes; hotter temperatures and more time is better. If several items are in the same bag, the bugs will find the coolest spot, so the entire bag and all the contents must be above that temperature.

Vapor steamers can reach the required temperatures, but as they cover such a small area, it is not always practical to keep even a single item (a mattress for example) above 120 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes.

The thermal death point for bedbugs depends upon how long the temperature is maintained. There is some variation among experts about exactly what temperatures and for what length of time is necessary.

Several companies offer heat-based treatments to eradicate bedbugs. One organization claims a patent on a treatment that raises temperatures to as much as 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep in mind that, in most states, one cannot offer pest control services unless they are properly licensed to provide that service.

Categories : Uncategorized
Posted by Admin on
 February 25, 2013

Fire Prevention – Protect Your Home.

Is Your Home In Danger?
Watch This Video To Find Out.
NBC TODAY Show: Dryer Fire Prevention, Sept. 2, 2008
NBC TODAY Show: Fire Prevention
  • Over 15,500 home fires per year are caused by dirty dryers and ducts.
  • It is advised that your dryer ducts get cleaned every year.
  • Clogged Dryer Vents can cause your energy bill to increase by as much as $24 per month.

When Is It Time To Clean Dryer Ducts?

  • If you haven’t cleaned the lint from your dryer and dryer duct within the last 12 months.
  • If you notice excess humidity in your laundry room during operation of the dryer.
  • If it takes more than one cycle to dry your clothing.
  • If the amount of lint on the lint screen is minimal or has recently reduced in quantity.
  • If you notice lint on newly dried clothing.
  • Danger: If you notice a hot or burnt odor.
  • Danger: If the top of your dryer is hot to the touch.
How Clean is the Air You Breath?
Furnace & Air Duct Cleaning
Truckmounted Negative Air System
RamAir TV Commercial
Furnace and Air Duct Cleaning Process Video

 Indoor air pollution is a serious health hazard affecting millions of Americans. 

 

 

Researchers claim it contributes to more than half of all illnesses, including sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, asthma and more. Common household pollutants include dust, mold, pollen rodent feces and insect remains. Doing the job effectively requires the right combination of superior technology and attention to workmanship.
That’s why you need the experts at Ultimate Carpet Cleaning.
INTRODUCING…

The Ultimate Breakthrough in Furnace Duct Cleaning

* Our revolutionary duct cleaning process allows for state-of-the-art forced air cleaning with no mess or debris and it won’t harm duct surfaces!

* Our duct cleaning system is the most effective system to date, as well as being the first system ever created that allows the homeowner to actually see all of the dust and debris as it is being removed from the duct system with the clear viewing port. This revolutionary system, called the RamAir Clearview Duct Cleaning System, has been gaining worldwide recognition and is expected to soon be available in 100 countries across the globe.

* At Ultimate Carpet Cleaning, we don’t just clean air ducts – we restore heating and air conditioning systems to superior cleanliness, including all mechanical equipment and duct work. Nobody cleans better than Ultimate Carpet Cleaning.

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